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was kickstarter.com/projects/tiko3d/tiko-the-unibody-3d-printer
https://web.archive.org/web/20180308021128/https://tiko3d.com/
https://web.archive.org/web/20160610093758/http://www.tiko3d.com:80/forum/
Tiko is a unibody 3d printer which I backed.
To get this working, I had to really push hard to get the filament to load. This was a frustrating first experience. I was then entirely unimpressed with the quality of its prints, even after a lot of fiddling.
Later, when I returned to use it, it seems that filament has snapped off inside it, and it thinks its loaded and will not load new filament. Heating does not remove it. I fiddled a lot, once more.. I'm giving up on it, it's garbage.
I did end up fixing it.. after giving it away.
See Tiko first impressions. It fails, hard.
- It requires a wireless internet connection.
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You require a wireless connection to it.
Technical Specifications ∞
was kickstarter.com/projects/tiko3d/tiko-the-unibody-3d-printer/
Object size
- 125mm / 4.9" cylinder diameter -- this is the base circle.
- 125mm / 4.9" height.
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169mm / 6.6" along one of the flat sides of its triangle.
Filament
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Materials: PLA, ABS, Nylon, Hips, "and more". (that list is unknown)
- Can extrude PLA with no active cooling.
- Non-proprietary 1.75mm filament.
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Standard 1kg 165mm (6.5 in.) diameter spool.
- I hear that a larger spool can lay outside the printer.
- Detects when it's out of filament. It will pause and can later resume.
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Ninjaflex is not supported (source)
Etc
- Wifi only, and can make its own wireless access point so you can print directly, too.
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Layer resolution of 50-250 microns.
- No visible lines at 50 microns (source)
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Uses a "brick" power adapter.
Software
- Proprietary browser-based software.
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Can read 3rd party G-code. (source)
- Save your G-code files to your computer, drag-and-drop them into Tiko's software, and hit print.
- Not supported, seems to be possibly damaging.
Unverified information ∞
[ 1 ] was from www.tiko3d.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=33 (gone, not archived)
Print speed | 30 mm/s | |
Nozzle tip size | 0.4mm | Replaceable |
File support | STL file | (only) |
Max nozzle temperature | 250C |
Unanswered questions ∞
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What is the complete list of filament materials?
- PLA, ABS, Nylon, Hips, "and more" (that list is unknown)
- "Can extrude PLA with no active cooling." -- does this mean active cooling is required for other filament materials?
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The printer will pause when it's out of filament, but can it be manually paused by the user?
- 2016-12-22 -- This is a lie. There is no pause functionality.
Usage ∞
- Tiko will show up as an open network.
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Visit print.tiko/ to control it.
- Yes, this means you cannot use your regular network while using the Tiko. Sigh.
- I have not tested using wired and wireless at the same time, as with https://superuser.com/questions/479654/how-to-use-wireless-and-wired-connection-both-at-a-same-time-in-windows-7
- Yes, this means you cannot use your regular network while using the Tiko. Sigh.
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Visit print.tiko/settings and set its internet connection to its wireless
- It will update automatically.
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Loading a filament may need some force while it's trying.
- You may need to heat the nozzle to eliminate anything that's already in there.
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https://www.thingiverse.com/ has some good models. Download and unpack them, then drag-and-drop them into the editor: print.tiko/editor
- Due to the stupidity of this device, you'll have to disconnect from it, and connect to your regular network to go and get more models to test with.
- You may have to fiddle with the basic settings at the top-right to make something look decent.
- When unloading, be sure to be patient and absolutely wait until it's done trying to move it itself.
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When storing it, unload it. Any already-loaded filament will often snap off.
TODO - I was considering using a spool holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:508896
Software ∞
See also /tag/3d-printing+software
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Can read 3rd party G-code. (source)
- Save your G-code files to your computer, drag-and-drop them into Tiko's software, and hit print.
- Not supported, seems to be possibly damaging.
I know nothing about this "g-code" and will be researching it.
Third-party filament ∞
https://web.archive.org/web/20170226221731/http://forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?p=3764
2017-02-26 ∞
After hearing that Tiko is going under, I looked into it to learn there was a big January update. Before things went completely to shit I got it up and running again for it.
- I can adjust the light's brightness and even turn it off.
- There are a whole lot of new settings, and I can download/upload the changes I make. Nice.
- I made a fairly aggressive bend in the filament to make it not unspool in storage, but it snapped and did anyway. Ugh.
- Jamming the filament to load it seemed more difficult this time around. It didn't seem to "catch" and I ended up seeing a string of exuded stuff come out. I did a "heat nozzle" and it seems to all be connected together properly..
- Auto-calibration seems to be nice this time around.
- The test print seems to have gone quite well, although it's basically welded to a triangular base. It's stringy, which is annoying.. I don't know how to clean such stuff.
- 419860 came out quite good. A couple of the items in the middle weren't supported well and lifted off the base.
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- 220C 0.10mm layer thickness
v1.2.5
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If printer is started upside down it will launch at default IP of 192.168.1.1
My custom settings ∞
From 2017-02-26
{ "infillPercent": 25, "layerThickness": 0.2, "temperature": 210, "autolevelOffset": 0, "flowPercentage": 1, "minLayerTime": 15, "coastLength": 2.5, "shells": 3, "surfaceLayers": 5, "wipeLength": 5, "retractLift": 1, "retractLength": 4, "unretractLength": 3.9, "retractSpeed": 15, "unretractSpeed": 15, "travelSpeed": 50, "shellsInsideSpeed": 20, "shellsMiddleSpeed": 20, "shellsOuterSpeed": 8, "infillSpeed": 20, "raftGapHeight": 0.54 }
Footnotes
^ 1 | was from www.tiko3d.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=33 (gone, not archived) |
Last updated 2021-01-11 at 20:25:27